Dec 182011
 

In just over a week, the biggest holiday of the year will be over. There’s plenty of eating to be done between now and then, however! After all, now’s the time to create the problem for which we need a New Year’s resolution to fix, right? Well, for some maybe… For me, holiday food needs to be comforting, heart-warming, home-y food, but not necessarily meals that leave you regretting your indulgence. Big roasts, slow cooked dishes, or just something different from what we have on a regular night are perfect, and they don’t have to destroy a diet. The holidays should be a time when we can take some time to cook, relax a little, enjoy good friends and good food without remorse.

I was up in Canada a few weeks ago, doing just that - celebrating the holidays early with some good friends. We had a delicious holiday meal together that I thought I would share with you. Easy, home-y and yet still special. It started off with a Montreal bone-in ham. It was cured and smoked and looked delicious even before we cooked it!

a cut piece of bone-in ham sitting on a white cutting board, on a wooden counter

I decided to keep it simple and make a delicious glaze for the ham, score it, brush it, bake it, baste it, and let it rest. I combined Madeira wine, brown sugar, maple syrup, orange juice, Dijon mustard and orange zest for the glaze and the ham was delicious!

What to go with ham? Well, many of you who might have seen me on QVC or have read my cookbook (Blue Jean Chef: Comfortable in the Kitchen), might know about my love of potato gratin. I love potato gratin and it’s a perfect match to ham. But… since the ham was already pretty decadent with respect to diet, I decided to be a little more sensible for this meal and went for some Old-School Scalloped Potatoes. Scalloped potatoes use milk instead of luscious cream, and so make a more sensible choice without really sacrificing delicious flavor.

The nice thing about this meal is that most of it is done ahead of time and you’re just left waiting for things to finish in the oven. Pop the potatoes into the oven while the ham rests on the counter. Add a green vegetable and perhaps a beautiful salad and you’re set with a tasty and memorable holiday meal.

Madeira Orange Baked Ham

slices of ham on a platter with parsley on top and jus on the platter

Serves 6

Ingredients:

  • 1½ cups Madeira Wine
  • ½ cup brown sugar
  • ¼ cup maple syrup
  • ¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
  • ¼ cup Dijon mustard
  • 1 tablespoon orange zest
  • 4 pound bone-in ham
  • 1 orange, sliced
  • whole cloves

Directions:

  1. Pre-heat the oven to 350ºF.
  2. Combine the Madeira, brown sugar, maple syrup, orange juice, Dijon mustard and orange zest in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and then immediately turn off the heat. (Pay attention. You don’t want this to boil over.)
  3. ham ready for the oven in a ceramic roasting dish with orange slices attached with whole clovesScore the ham with crosshatch marks and place in a 9-inch x 13-inch roasting pan. Pour the glaze over the top and then nail orange slices to the ham, using whole cloves.
  4. Transfer the ham to the oven and bake for about 1 hour, or until an instant-read thermometer reads 140ºF, basting a few times while it bakes.
  5. Remove the ham from the oven and set on the counter to rest. Serve sliced with the jus at the table.

 

Old-School Scalloped Potatoes

nicely browned scalloped potatoes in hard anodized oval pan with spoon

Serves 6

Ingredients:

  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 3 cups milk
  • 1 large clove garlic, peeled and smashed.
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • pinch ground nutmeg
  • 6 to 7 medium potatoes, sliced ¼-inch (Yukon Gold are perfect)
  • ½ cup chopped onion
  • 1 to 1-1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese

Directions:

  1. Pre-heat the oven to 375ºF.
  2. Heat a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the butter and melt. Add the flour and whisk with the butter, cooking for about 2 minutes. Add the milk, stirring constantly and bring the mixture to a boil. Add the smashed garlic clove and let the sauce simmer for 5 to 10 minutes. Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and ground nutmeg.
  3. Spread out one third of the potato slices in a 3-quart casserole pan. Sprinkle half the chopped onion on top and pour one third of the sauce over the vegetables. Sprinkle with one third of the Parmesan cheese. Repeat these layers, finishing with a layer of potatoes, sauce and cheese.
  4. Bake in the 375ºF oven, covered for 45 minutes. Remove the cover and continue to cook for 15 minutes. The potatoes should be bubbling and lightly browned on top. Serve to happy friends.

 

Dec 112011
 
a wooden spoon of ketchup held over a background of ketchup

© FotografiaBasica

Most Sunday afternoons, when I’m driving home from work, I listen to Prairie Home Companion on public radio. For those of you who may never have heard the Prairie Home Companion show, it is an old-time variety show on the radio, created and hosted by Garrison Keillor. Music is a big part of the show (with guests from many genres of music, ranging from country to folk, to blues, bluegrass and gospel), but it also features many comedy skits as well. Some of my favorite skits involve the fictitious sponsors of the show and their commercial breaks sprinkled throughout. One in particular comes from The Catchup Advisory Board (intentionally spelled as a compromise between the two common spellings of the condiment). In these “commercial breaks” we hear from Jim and Barb, an average middle-aged couple with everyday problems. We hear of their recent sufferings and the solution always turns out to be “eat more ketchup” because “ketchup has natural mellowing agents” to solve almost any problem. For instance…

  • “Ketchup has natural mellowing agents that help to keep you proactive, not reactive. So you can live your life, instead of destroying your home.”
  • “Ketchup contains natural mellowing agents that help you get over the post-holiday blues. And its festive red color really brightens up almost any dish.”
  • “Ketchup contains natural mellowing agents that help you remember that you don’t have to take every opportunity to suffer that comes along.”
  • “Ketchup has natural mellowing agents that calm your fears and help you look boldly into the future.”
  • “Jim… honey… I just wonder if you’re getting enough ketchup. Ketchup contains natural mellowing agents that help you gain perspective on what’s really important.”

And then the commercial ends with the same jingle every time… “Ketchup. For the good times. Ketchup… Ketchuuuupppp.” It always makes me laugh or smile. I guess what makes this skit work is that everyone knows what ketchup is, and consequently how improbable it is that ketchup could really solve any problem. It is a nice thought though.

For many years now, there has been a common debate about whether ketchup or salsa might hold the title of America’s most popular condiment. After doing a little digging, I discovered that total US sales of salsa are indeed higher than those of ketchup. However, the total number of units of ketchup sold exceeds the total number of units of salsa sold in the country. Wrap into that argument the fact that ketchup is cheaper than salsa and also lasts longer in the refrigerator, therefore requiring replacing less often, and I think you’ve got an even bigger debate. Let’s just say, ketchup and salsa are America’s most popular condiments.

What really baffles me about ketchup is its lack of diversity. Let me explain…

Ketchup has been around for centuries, but it didn’t originate as the tomato-based condiment we know today. Ketchup started out as a blend of pickled fish and spices (!). It basically involved mixing something with vinegar, and only started to regularly include tomatoes by the beginning of the 19th century. It wasn’t very well accepted at the time because many people in the 1800s thought that tomatoes were poisonous. They were, however, more inclined to eat tomatoes that had been cooked with vinegar and spices than to eat them raw, so by the last quarter of the century ketchup was accepted and started on its path to becoming one of America’s most popular condiments.

Now, if I were to ask you to picture the bottle of ketchup in your refrigerator right now (and 97% of US households have ketchup in their refrigerator), I’d bet my bottom dollar that you’re probably all picturing the same bottle. Why is that? Ketchup started out as a generic term for a sauce including vinegar, but has ended up as one specific variety of sauce. There is not just one variety of salsa. We choose between mild, medium and hot, between chipotle and tomatillo, between fire-roasted and fresh. Even mustard has varieties that we get to choose from - plain yellow mustard, Dijon, Chinese, whole-grain, and any number of flavored mustards. What happened to ketchup? Where’s our variety and choice? If ketchup is really one of our most popular condiments, why haven’t we embraced its variations?

Well, my friends, now is the time! (you knew this was coming, didn’t you?) Professional chefs are now embracing ketchup’s variations and it’s time for all of us to jump on that bandwagon. At José Andrés’ America Eats Tavern in Washington, DC he serves as many as eight different varieties of house-made ketchup. Restaurants in New York City are serving gourmet ketchups instead of that bottle you just pictured in your head. jar of Sir Kensington's Scooping ketchup on white backgroundWhat you’ll find at many of those restaurants is a brand called Sir Kensington’s Gourmet Scooping Ketchup. And it’s delicious! Sir Kensington’s is a little thicker, much tastier, a little reminiscent of salsa, actually. It’s less cloyingly sweet. Why? Because unlike leading brands, it does not contain any high-fructose corn syrup. Instead, it is sweetened with agave nectar, honey and raw brown sugar. Rather than using white vinegar, Sir Kensington’s has apple cider vinegar. In the age of reading the ingredient list, Sir Kensington’s comes out a winner. It has 50% less sugar, 28% less sodium and 25% fewer calories compared to national brands.

I became acquainted with this gourmet ketchup this past year and I’ll tell you why I’m sold on it (aside from the list of ingredients). Previously, my ketchup bottle sat in my fridge for months, unused except for the occasional burger, with a nasty crust around the top of the bottle. Since I started enjoying Sir Kensington’s Gourmet Scooping Ketchup, I’ve gone through three jars! I eat it. I enjoy it. It’s not just for burgers anymore. I’ll tell you a secret… never before have I found myself in the fridge sticking my finger into a jar of ketchup for a little snack! Seriously! Finally, as a cook, I’ve always been a believer that your final product can only be as good as your ingredients, and since ketchup is often used as an ingredient, it had better be good.

Want to give it a try? You can find it at QVC and I’ll be showing it off on the air on Monday, December 12th in the 4pm ET show. Once you get yours, stick your finger in the jar and give it a taste, spread it on a piece of bread and bite in, or try it on the top of the meatloaf recipe below for the best glaze ever. Now’s the time to embrace The New Ketchup!

 

Spicy Italian Meatloaf (from Blue Jean Chef: Comfortable in the Kitchen)

white platter with slices of meatloaf with tomato glaze

photography by Jessica Walker

Serves 8

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs (torn up day old bread is good)
  • ½ cup milk
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 1 pound ground beef
  • ½ pound hot Italian sausage, casings removed and meat broken up
  • ½ pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed and meat broken up
  • ½ cup chopped roasted red pepper
  • ½ teaspoon dried basil
  • ½ teaspoon dried oregano
  • ¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 vine-ripened tomatoes, sliced (¼-inch slices)
  • 6 tablespoons Sir Kensington’s Gourmet Scooping Ketchup
  • 2 tablespoons brown sugar

Directions:

  1. Pre-heat the oven to 350˚ F.
  2. Place the breadcrumbs and milk in a large mixing bowl and let the bread soak while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
  3. Pre-heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil, and cook the onion and garlic until tender but not browned – about 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the onions and garlic to the bowl with the breadcrumbs and milk.
  4. Add the ground beef, sausage meat, roasted red pepper, basil, oregano, parsley, eggs, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper to the bowl and mix everything together with your hands just until everything is combined. Transfer the mix to a meatloaf pan or baking sheet. If you like a meatloaf with soft sides, leave the mix in the meatloaf pan, ideally one with a perforated bottom and a pan below to catch the drippings. If you prefer a harder crust on the sides of your meatloaf, invert the loaf pan onto a baking sheet and bake the meatloaf without the loaf pan. Overlap the tomato slices on the meatloaf and drizzle the remaining tablespoon of olive oil on top.
  5. Bake in the oven for 60 minutes. Remove the meatloaf from the oven. Quickly combine the ketchup and brown sugar and brush over the tomatoes to glaze the meatloaf. Return the meatloaf to the oven and bake for 15 more minutes, or until an instant read thermometer registers 160˚ F in the center of the meat. The tomatoes should be roasted and a little brown at the edges. Let the meatloaf rest and then slice and serve.
Dec 042011
 

It’s in my blood. I think about food all the time, but it’s not my fault. I was born this way. Food has been an obsession in my family for generations. As a whole, my family (or at least many of the members of my family) believes that if we are not fed at regular intervals, we will surely die. And so you see, I’m wired to plan meals. I think about what to eat for my next meal of the day just as much as I think about what my meals will be on specific days that week, or even weeks away from today on special days.

notebook with words "Christmas Morning" on wooden table, pen on notebook, coffee cup in corner

One of those special days is quickly approaching… Christmas. People like to reminisce on Christmas Day. Many like to repeat family traditions on Christmas, and have the same meals that day that they had as children. I was like that for a while. I used to ask my mother to make Accra and Float on Christmas morning as a child, and indeed made it again for myself as an adult. (You can read about Accra and Float here.) Accra and Float is a lot of work, however, so now I mix things up and make different breakfasts and dinners too on Christmas Day.

This year, for Christmas dinner I am going to make the Brandy Braised Beef Roast with Beets, Carrots and Horseradish Cream out of my cookbook Blue Jean Chef: Comfortable in the Kitchen. For breakfast, however, I’m still deciding what to make. Breakfast is an important meal - it sets the tone for the day ahead. On Christmas Day a couple of factors come into play when deciding what to make for breakfast. First of all, will you have a houseful or just the regular family around? Secondly, will you have time to spend in the kitchen making breakfast, or would it be better to have something quick and easy, something made ahead of time? This year I’ll wake up on Christmas morning in a cabin in the Catskills. I also need to decide what equipment I feel like lugging up there. Most people have a busy Christmas Day, often involving travel and preparing a big dinner, so I thought it would be best to think of some make-ahead options to give you.

Here are two recipes for you to consider for Christmas morning. The first, Bacon Waffles with Bananas and Maple syrup can be made that morning, OR you can make them ahead of time, wrap in plastic wrap, freeze them and re-heat them in the oven for 5 minutes. Easy breezy. The second recipe is for scones. These scones are the best I’ve ever had and you can add whatever fruit flavor you like - cranberry-orange would be particularly nice on Christmas day. These are made ahead of time and then baked the morning of. Merry Christmas!

Bacon Waffles with Bananas and Maple Syrup

a white plate with one waffle on it. sliced bananas on top and maple syrup being poured on

Serves 4

Ingredients:

  • bowl of dry ingredients, measuring glass of wet ingredients, whipped egg white in a separate bowl, lemon and lemon juicer and strips of cooked bacon1/2 cup milk
  • 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 tablespoons cornmeal
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 6 strips bacon, cooked and chopped
  • 2 eggs, separated
  • 1/4 cup butter, melted and cooled
  • 2 bananas, peeled and sliced
  • maple syrup
Directions:
  1. Pre-heat your waffle maker.
  2. Combine the milk and lemon juice in a bowl and set aside while you prepare the rest of the ingredients. The milk will thicken a little.
  3. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, salt, baking soda and chopped cooked bacon.
  4. Add the egg yolks and the melted butter to the milk and whisk gently. Whip the egg whites to soft peak stage.
  5. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients slowly, stirring as you do so, making sure all the flour is moistened, but not over-beaten. Gently fold in the whipped egg whites until no more tufts of white can be seen.
  6. Make the waffles in the waffle maker. If you are holding the waffles warm, keep them in an oven set to 170º F until you are ready to serve. If you are making the waffles ahead of time, cool on a cooling rack and then wrap in plastic wrap well and store in the freezer. Re-heat in the toaster or in a 350º F oven for 5 minutes from a thawed state.
  7. Serve with sliced bananas and maple syrup.
Blueberry Lemon Scones

white plate with two baked scones

Makes 8 to 10 scones

Ingredients:

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1¼ cups whole-wheat flour
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • ¾ teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 2½ teaspoons baking powder
  • 2 cups old fashioned rolled oats
  • 10 ounces (2½ sticks) of chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
  • ¾ cup buttermilk
  • ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries
  • 2 teaspoons lemon zest

Directions:

  1. Combine all the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Mix well.
  2. Add the cut up butter and pinch the butter into the dry ingredients with your hands until the mixture resembles coarse meal.
  3. Combine the buttermilk and the vanilla extract and add the liquid to the dry ingredients, along with the blueberries and lemon zest. Mix with your hands until the dough just starts to come together.
  4. Turn the dough out onto a large piece of parchment paper (optional, but makes moving the scones much easier) or onto the counter. Shape the dough into a long rectangle, about 16-inches long by about 3- to 4-inches wide. Score the dough into 8 to 10 triangles (the final desired shape of the scones). Cover with plastic wrap and transfer the dough to the freezer for at least 2 hours. (You can leave the dough in the freezer at this point for up to a month.)
  5. Pre-heat the oven to 350º F. Remove the dough from the freezer and let it start to thaw lightly while the oven pre-heats. Cut the scones through, following the score marks. Transfer scones to a cookie sheet and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until lightly browned on the edges.