Nov 282012
 

An apple pie on a cooling rack with two red apples in the background

 

There are two things I love about pie - the pastry and the filling.

Ok, so I love everything about pies! After all, what’s not to love? What could be better than a warm, flakey crust that breaks gently under your fork paired with a warm sweet fruit filling? It’s a dessert that pleases your heart as much as your taste buds. It’s sort of the chicken noodle soup of the dessert world.

If I had to choose which is more important to me in a pie, the pastry or the filling, I’d probably be forced to go with the pastry (although the two components truly are inseparable). I like a pastry made of butter, rather than shortening. The butter gives the pastry great flavor and a crisp texture. Shortening does make a flakey crust, but I can’t go without the flavor of butter. Sometimes I do compromise, however, and accept a pastry made of both.

The rule to making pastry is simple – keep everything cold. The goal is to work butter into the dough without completely blending it into the flour. In a finished pastry, you should still be able to see chunks of butter. Those patches of butter will separate the proteins in the flour when baked, making it more like flaky pastry than chewy bread. By keeping the butter cold, you run less risk of blending it into the flour. By using ice-cold water, you also increase your chances of keeping the butter in small chunks.

How the pastry is baked is critical. It’s easy to get the top crust to look perfectly golden brown, but it’s the bottom crust that needs help cooking through and crisping up. It is the bottom crust after all that is sitting at the bottom of a pie pan with moist fruit filling piled on top. You can see how it would be a challenge to ensure the bottom crust is cooked through and has that prized pie texture. There are a few things a home baker can do to get the pastry cooked properly on the bottom of a pie. Continue reading »

Nov 192012
 
a whole roast turkey on a white platter with oranges and herbs around it.

@ Bochkarev Photography

It’s the monday before American Thanksgiving and the plans for this thursday’s meal are under way. As I write this, the turkey stock is simmering on the stovetop and the turkey brine is cooling on the counter. I’ve been brining my Thanksgiving turkeys for several years now. It’s easy to do and really does result in a deliciously moist turkey. All you need is a little forethought and some room in your refrigerator.

To brine your turkey just means to submerge it in a salty solution over a period of time. What happens when you brine is all science. The brine works to flavor the turkey through the process of osmosis. The salty solution initially draws moisture out of the turkey, but then, the salty solution gets drawn back into the turkey, taking along with it all the great flavors of whatever you’ve put into the brine. The salt denatures the cells of the turkey meat, making them better able to hold moisture. And so, after some time in the brine, those cells can actually hold 10 - 15% more water than they did before brining.

There are a couple of simple ratios to remember when you’re brining.

  • Use 1 cup of table salt (or 1.5 cups kosher salt because kosher salt has a higher volume by weight) for ever 1 gallon of water you need to cover the turkey.
  • Brine the turkey 1 hour for every pound of turkey.

At it’s most basic level, a brine could consist of just water and salt, but since you’re going to the effort of brining, why not put some other flavors in there that will help season the center of your Thanksgiving plate? Here’s what I use in a brine: Continue reading »

Nov 102012
 

Last week, I found myself inundated with salad greens. Superstorm Sandy left my friends without power, and I inherited all their perishable food so that it wouldn’t go to waste. For someone who cooks for only one or two most of the time and shops every day for whatever it is I want that night, inheriting the weekly produce for a family of three was a little overwhelming. I had a large tub of mixed greens (you know - the size that you can wash a baby or small dog in!), a huge bag of spinach, and a couple of heads of radicchio, all on top of the usual box of greens and other salad ingredients that I had on hand for myself. It looked like salad was going to be an “every meal accompaniment” - with eggs for breakfast, as an entrée for lunch and along side every dinner - for as long as they would last.

The good news was… I love salad. I truly do. I have a fondness for foods that are so variable (like omelets, pizza, pastas). You can add any mixture of ingredients and dressings to a bowl of greens and change the salad completely from what it was the last time you had it. All this salad got me thinking about vinaigrettes and in talking with my friends about my overabundance of salad greens, I realized that the simplicity of a vinaigrette often eludes the home cook. So, I thought I’d put together some tips for making a perfect vinaigrette. Continue reading »