Everyone has a favorite grain, don’t they? Well, perhaps not, but I always have favorite foods that I can’t get enough of… until I move on to something else. Lately I’ve been feeling a little fickle with my grains. Rice has tried to stay on the top of my list, luring me with the wonderful smell of a freshly made pot of Basmati. My morning steel cut oats are still making a run for the lead position in my heart, and even quinoa tried to get in the mix. Still, I have chosen a new “best grain” and it’s neither rice, nor oats, nor quinoa. It’s farro.

Farro - the most ancient grain.

I remember when I first tasted farro, years ago as a cook at Zuni Café in San Francisco. Since then, however, farro and I have not crossed paths too often. This summer we were reunited and I think this time the relationship is going to last. First things first - what is farro?

Believe it or not, there’s quite a debate about what farro actually is (emmer, einkorn, spelt), but it is generally accepted that farro is the world’s most ancient grain - the grain from which all other grains are derived. That’s sort of cool in and of itself, but there’s so much more about farro to like. It’s a whole grain, with the bran intact and consequently has a lovely nutty flavor. It is also a very nutritious grain. Farro is a great source of complex carbohydrates and while it is an ancient form of wheat, it has more than twice the fiber and protein of modern wheat. So why have we not seen farro hanging out in our supermarkets? Well, farro is not a high-yielding crop. In fact, a field of farro only yields about a sixth of what a similar field of wheat will yield. It was a staple ration of the Roman legions, but after the fall of the Roman empire, other higher-yielding grains were developed and took over. Farro fell by the wayside. But, farro didn’t disappear completely and has been popular in Italy and France for quite some time. Though it’s not a standard grocery store item in the USA yet, you can find farro at high-end groceries, specialty stores or even online (amazon.com).

When it comes right down to it, farro is a grain with a fancy reputation, but is cooked just like any other grain - it is boiled in water (or other liquid) until soft(er). Simple. Easy. And delicious. Farro works well in soups, stews, as a cold salad, but my favorite preparation of farro is in a farrotto - just like a risotto, but made with farro instead of rice. When I compare a farotto to a risotto, farro emerges as the winner for a couple of reasons. A farrotto is easier to cook than risotto - just boil it in the liquid until done to your liking and then stir in other cooked vegetables or ingredients. Risotto, on the other hand, requires a gradual adding of liquid and diligent attention, stirring regularly. Farro is practically impossible to overcook, whereas you can easily overcook risotto resulting in a gloppy mess. Farro feels healthier and less rich than risotto. I expect this is mostly because I omit the cheese at the end of cooking a farrotto that I always add to risotto, but regardless, it’s a healthy grain and you feel healthy when you eat it. Finally, farrottos are a great way for me to incorporate all those summer vegetables that were abundant the last couple of months. It was the base for many lovely delicious vegetarian summer meals.

You may not have a favorite grain, but here’s the good news… I’m willing to share! Give farro a chance!

Farrotto with zucchini, tomatoes and basil.

Basic Farrotto
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 onion, chopped
1 cup farro
4 cups vegetable stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions:
1. Heat a large sauté pan or Dutch oven on medium to medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and cook the onion until translucent and tender - about 6 to 8 minutes.
2. Add the farro and stir well, cooking for a minute or two. Add the vegetable stock and bring to a simmer. Simmer the farro for 45 minutes, or until tender. (Don’t expect the farro to become really soft - farro should always have some bite and chewiness to it.) If the liquid reduces and disappears before the farro is tender to your liking, simply add water and continue to cook until it is tender.
3. At this stage, remove the farro from the stovetop and stir in cooked vegetables and fresh herbs (see suggestions below) to finish the farrotto, or store the farrotto base in containers in the fridge or freezer until you’re ready to use it.

Farrotto Suggestions:
- Zucchini, tomatoes, parsley, chives and basil
- Mushrooms, peas and mint
- Butternut squash, apple and sage